Was VERY careful removing the throttle body to try and keep from breaking the gasket. Made it much easier to get the wires completely on the coils.] [Steve Stover adds: I The rubber coil cap and the coil while sliding it on to give the air a place to escape. Tight fitting Magnecore wires on the coils I unrolled a paper clip and inserted it between
Remove the stock wires and replace with the new wires using the following guide: WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND REPLACING ONE WIRE AT A TIME TO AVOID ERRORS AND POSSIBLYĭAMAGING THE ENGINE.! 8. Of the oil filler neck must now be pulled away from the "Trailing Number 1" coil After detaching the two small hoses attached near the filler cap, the upper portion Then the wire was interesting to put back on.] 6. I had to remove aĬoil wire to get the bolt started. I couldn't get the rear vertical bolt to line up and start threading.
It did make access easier, but when I went to bolt it back on Since I had all the bolts loose I figured I might as well Is a 3rd bolt holding the filler neck in place, under the horizontal part of the removable Stover adds: I had to move the filler neck to remove the front plug wire. Loosening the oil filler neck, so try it before you take a go at the filler neck] [Steve [Rob Robinette adds: I was able to replace the plug wires without Now, loosen the two 10mm bolts holding the oil filler neck in place, but do not [Steve Stover adds: To remove the throttle body I HAD to disconnect the coolant Rotate this throttle body unit up, at the front, to expose the ignition coil Gently pull the throttle body off of the studs, exercising caution to keep from destroying Remove the two 12mm chrome acorn nuts from the underside of the throttle body. [Steve Stover adds: I removed theīolt holding the boost control bracket, which made swinging the rigid tube over the top of The engine, out of the way of the stock ignition wires. Off of the rear stud, then re-position the rigid tube (loosened in step 2) over the top of Remove the two 12mm acorn nuts at the top of the throttle body. Necessary to disconnect the small hose at the rear of this rigid tube. Remove the four 10mm nuts that retain this rigid tube to the throttle body. Remove the clamp on the forward end of the rigid tube leading to the throttle body. The barrel-shaped end out of its mounting slot. Radius" arm, on which it pulls, by holding the arm in the open position and slipping Remove the end of the throttle cable from its attachment on the "constant Good luck, I know OSD sells a kit that includes the wires and a new clip if you need to go that path.CAUTION: Attempting to perform this installation task with the engine hot will likely Mark the wire with the depth of the hole so you will know when the wire is fully inserted. I also had an issue getting the wire to push all the way in. I feel lucky that I was able to replace the wires without breaking the clip so if you decide to do this, be sure to go slow and be delicate. I used a pick to probe around the clip and wire to loosen up the old epoxy that was used to glue the wire and clip in place. I used a heat gun to warm it up so the clip was a little more flexible. You have to be very careful getting the old clip off without breaking it. Older model Sea Doo’s use 7mm suppression spark plug wire. You will need the very fragile clip unbroken to hold the wires into the coil.ģ.
I followed a discussion by RacerXXX on how to replace the wires.Ģ. I did not find any photos of how to replace the spark plug wires so I took a couple while replacing my wires.